Bonded Titles by State: Rules and Amounts
By Andy, Founder, TitlePull
Last updated October 11, 2026 · Reviewed by Andy · October 2026

What is a bonded title?
A bonded title is a genuine certificate of title, issued by a state and backed by a surety bond that protects anyone who later proves a valid claim to the vehicle. States issue them when you can show you own a car but cannot produce a valid title for it.
The situation is ordinary. You bought a car from a private seller who never signed over the title. The title was lost years ago. The last registered owner has moved away or will not answer. The vehicle sat in a garage for decades with no paper trail.
Nevada's DMV says its bonded title process was created by Senate Bill 452, passed in 2017. The bond is the state's way of saying you can have a title now, and here is the money that pays whoever proves you should not have.
For a used-car buyer, a bonded title on a listing raises a specific question, and it is not the one most people assume. It is not "was this car wrecked." It is "is the ownership settled." Those are very different risks, and the rest of this guide is about telling them apart.
Why compare bonded title rules by state?
Because the rules are set state by state, and the differences are larger than most guides suggest. Many articles repeat that the bond is one and a half times the vehicle's value and lasts three years. That fits the most common pattern and is wrong often enough to matter.
Three things vary, and you have to check all three:
- The multiplier. Usually 1.5x, but not always. California uses fair market value.
- The value basis. Original MSRP, average trade-in value, a retail appraisal, or a state-published presumptive value. These can produce very different figures for the same car.
- The eligibility gate. Residency, where the vehicle is located, vehicle age, lien status, and whether the vehicle is complete.
How do bonded title rules compare in eight states?
Each state below is drawn from that state's own agency page or regulation. Rules change, so confirm with the agency before you spend money.
Texas
Texas sets the bond at one and a half times the vehicle's value. TxDMV uses its Standard Presumptive Value as the primary source, then a national reference guide if there is no SPV, and then an appraisal by a licensed motor vehicle dealer or insurance adjuster.
You apply to a TxDMV Regional Service Center with form VTR-130-SOF, supporting evidence and a $15 administrative fee. If you are approved, TxDMV issues a notice stating the bond amount (form VTR-130-ND). You then have one year from the date of the notice to buy the bond, and 30 days after buying it to take the paperwork to your county tax office. An appraisal on form VTR-125 must be submitted within 30 days of the appraisal date.
Texas-specific details:
- You must be a Texas resident or military personnel stationed in Texas.
- The vehicle must be a complete unit with frame, body and motor (frame and motor for a motorcycle). It does not have to run.
- A vehicle that is junked or nonrepairable is not eligible.
- You are not eligible if you cannot obtain a release of lien or letter of no interest from a recorded lienholder of 10 years or less.
- For vehicles 25 years or older appraised under $4,000, the value is set at $4,000.
The TxDMV page does not state how long the bond stays in force, so ask the agency. Buying in Texas? Our Texas car buying guide covers the wider title and registration picture.
Nevada
Nevada bases the bond on original MSRP, not current value, which can produce a much larger bond than you expect on an older car. The bond amount is 1.5 times MSRP, and for a salvage vehicle it is 25 percent of MSRP.
The bond must remain in effect for three years. The title carries the phrase Bonded Vehicle Title across the top. Nevada handles bonded titles exclusively through the Title Research Section in Carson City. You must be a Nevada resident, and the vehicle must be physically in Nevada.
One quirk: the DMV's own page describes the amount as 1.5 times MSRP in one place and as "usually 1.5 times the vehicle's original retail price" in another. Confirm the exact figure with the DMV before you buy a bond. See our Nevada buying guide.
Arizona
Arizona sets the bond at 1.5 times the vehicle's average value, citing A.R.S. section 28-2057, using form 40-1001.
Arizona front-loads the verification. The vehicle must be inspected by a certified inspector at an MVD office, an Authorized Third Party, or a law enforcement agency. If a required lienholder response or lien release is not provided, the form says the bond process stops and becomes a judicial matter.
Penalty fees apply if the bond is not submitted within 30 days of the purchase date. By signing, you also acknowledge that the vehicle can be awarded back to the original owner or lienholder. The form says to ask the bond issuer about the bond's terms and conditions. See our Arizona buying guide.
Minnesota
Minnesota is the clearest age gate. If the vehicle is more than five years old, you may be able to apply for a bonded certificate of title. DVS determines the vehicle's value, and you buy a surety bond for one and a half times that value.
DVS holds the bond for three years, and the title is branded BONDED. If no ownership claims are made in that time, the bond may be returned and a new title may be issued without the brand. The page uses "may" for both, so removal is not automatic.
Which documents you need depends on whether a record exists for the vehicle, so DVS asks you to check with a local deputy registrar or DVS first. See our Minnesota buying guide.
Vermont
Vermont's bond must be one and one-half times the J.D. Power average trade-in value. Only a Vermont resident can get a Vermont bonded title, and bonded titles generally transition to full ownership titles after three years. A bonded title carries a title brand.
Vermont's distinguishing requirement is the effort standard. The department will consider your application if you show letters from the issuing state that the title or a replacement is unavailable. The bond form (VT-020) is completed by your insurance company, so you need a provider that can execute it. See our Vermont buying guide.
Alaska
Alaska allows a three-year non-cancelable title surety bond or a cash bond in the amount of one and a half times the appraised value of the vehicle.
The appraisal rules are specific. It must be of retail value rather than wholesale or trade-in, completed in Alaska, and no more than 90 days old. Alaska DMV also verifies the VIN by inspection. Trailers over 500 pounds need a bond when proof of ownership is inadequate, and a certified scale weight slip can show a trailer falls under the threshold.
California
California is the exception to the 1.5x rule. Under title 13, section 152.00 of the California Code of Regulations, the penal sum of the bond is the fair market value of the vehicle. On a $12,000 car that is a $12,000 bond instead of an $18,000 one.
Fair market value comes from one of two methods: a written appraisal by a licensed motor vehicle dealer or an insurance representative, or the highest and lowest price variations from a recognized valuation guide such as Kelley Blue Book, added together and divided by two. The regulation text does not specify a bond term, so confirm timing with DMV. See our California buying guide.
South Dakota
South Dakota's route is narrow: it is for a vehicle 30 years old or older with no record on file for ownership and no bill of sale.
You submit a request form, and a Motor Vehicle Division agent values and searches the vehicle. You then buy a bond from a South Dakota surety bond company and finish at your county treasurer's office. You have up to 24 months from when the request is approved to apply for the title. The state's page is dated 2021, so confirm current fees and requirements before you start. See our South Dakota buying guide.
What patterns hold across states, and what does not?
A few rules of thumb hold up, and one common claim does not.
What generally holds:
- The multiplier is usually 1.5x. Texas, Nevada, Arizona, Minnesota, Vermont and Alaska all use it. California is the exception among these eight.
- Three years shows up often. Nevada, Minnesota, Vermont and Alaska each state a three-year bond period, and Minnesota and Vermont describe what happens afterward.
- Do not buy the bond first. Texas and Nevada both tell applicants to wait for the agency to state the bond amount. Buying early can mean buying the wrong amount.
- Liens stop the process. Texas and Arizona both say an unresolved lien takes you out of the administrative route.
What does not hold: the claim, repeated on many aggregator sites, that a specific list of states "ban" bonded titles. Those lists disagree with each other and rarely cite a source. Check your own state's agency directly.
What should a buyer do about a bonded title?
If you are looking at a used car whose title says BONDED, work through this list.
- Ask when the bond was issued. In a three-year state, a bond issued 34 months ago is a very different proposition from one issued last month.
- Confirm nothing else is attached to the VIN. A bonded title says the paperwork was broken. It does not say the car was never totaled, flooded or stolen. Our guide to checking whether a title is clean explains how brands stack.
- Check for a theft record specifically. This is the one that turns a bonded title into a real problem. How to Check if a Car Is Stolen covers it.
- Decode the VIN first. Confirm the vehicle is what the listing claims. Our free VIN decoder does this without an account.
- Pull the title-brand record. A TitlePull report is $9.99 flat, with no account and no subscription. It returns title brands, odometer history, salvage and insurance records, theft records and open recalls in a plain-English summary.
- Know what a bonded title is not. It is not salvage and it is not rebuilt. If you are weighing those, read our salvage check guide and Car Title Types Explained.
What if you are the one who needs a bonded title?
You bought a car and the seller never gave you the title. The order of operations is similar in most states.
- Try the normal route first. Contact the seller, the previous owner, the issuing state and any lienholder. Vermont requires proof you tried.
- Confirm your state offers the route and that you qualify. Residency, vehicle location and vehicle age are common gates.
- Get the vehicle inspected if your state requires it.
- Let the agency set the bond amount before you buy a bond.
- Buy the bond from a surety licensed in your state and watch the deadlines.
- File the title application with the remaining forms and fees.
- Calendar the end of the bond period. In states that publish a removal step, you may be able to apply for a title without the brand. Nobody will remind you.
States are also moving titles into electronic systems, which changes where a title physically lives. Our guide to electronic car titles by state explains which states hold titles electronically and what that means when you buy or sell.
Sources
- Texas Department of Motor Vehicles, Bought a Vehicle Without a Title?
- Nevada Department of Motor Vehicles, Bonded Vehicle Title
- Arizona Department of Transportation MVD, Bond Title Application, form 40-1001
- Minnesota Department of Public Safety, Driver and Vehicle Services, No proof of ownership vehicle title application
- Vermont Department of Motor Vehicles, Bonded Title
- Alaska Division of Motor Vehicles, No Proof of Ownership (Surety Bond)
- Cornell Law School Legal Information Institute, Cal. Code Regs. tit. 13, section 152.00
- South Dakota Department of Revenue, Request a Bonded Title for Your Untitled Vehicle
- Federal Trade Commission Consumer Advice, Buying a Used Car From a Dealer
This article is general information about vehicle title records, not legal advice. Bonded title rules vary by state and change over time. Confirm current requirements with your state's motor vehicle agency before buying a bond.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to buy a car with a bonded title?
It can be, and a bonded title is different from a salvage or lemon brand. Nothing about it says the vehicle was damaged. It says the paperwork was broken, usually because a seller never signed over a title, the title was lost, or the last owner could not be reached. The risk is about ownership rather than condition. Someone could still surface with a claim, and the surety bond exists because the state acknowledges that possibility. Two checks close most of the gap. First, ask when the bond was issued, because in states with a three-year period a car deep into that window is lower risk than one bonded last month. Second, run the VIN to confirm nothing else is attached to it, especially a theft record or an unreleased lien, which are the two things most likely to turn into a dispute.
How much does a bonded title cost?
The bond amount and what you pay for the bond are two different numbers, and people mix them up constantly. The bond amount is the coverage figure the state sets, often one and a half times the vehicle's value, so a $10,000 car usually means a $15,000 bond. You do not pay $15,000. You pay a premium to a surety company for that coverage, and the premium is a fraction of the bond amount that varies by company, so get a quote. On top of that come state fees, such as the $15 administrative fee Texas lists for a bonded title application, plus the ordinary title, registration and tax fees you would owe anyway. Budget for the premium plus fees, not for the bond amount.
Does a bonded title ever become a regular title?
In some states it may, and that is the key difference between a bonded title and a damage brand. Nevada requires the bond to stay in effect for three years, and you should ask the DMV what happens to the bonded status afterward. Minnesota holds the bond for three years and says that if no ownership claims are made, the bond may be returned and a new title may be issued without the brand. Not every state publishes the same removal step, and Vermont says only that a bonded title generally transitions into a full ownership title after three years. If you are buying a bonded-title vehicle, ask when the bond was issued, because that tells you both how much risk is left and how soon the brand may clear.
Disclosures
TitlePull is not a consumer reporting agency under the Fair Credit Reporting Act. Reports are for informational purposes and may not be used for employment, tenant, credit, or insurance underwriting decisions.
Get the full vehicle history for $9.99.
Check a VIN